The Capitoline Wolf has been on my list ever since my last visit to Rome. The statue depicts a she-wolf nurturing Romulus and Remus, the twin founders of Rome. Along with the letters "SPQR", the imagery has come to symbolize the city.
So we headed to the Capitoline Museum bright and early, taking the long way just so we can enter the museum square (Piazza del Campidoglio) via Michelangelo's famous Cordonata staircase.
Two beautiful Egyptian basalt lions guard the staircase entry. I wish I had taken photos close up because for a couple of 2,000 year-olds, they look amazing. The gradual incline of the Cordonata was designed to allow horseriders to climb up without dismounting.
Capitoline Wolf (Replica)
The real deal is inside the museum
The museum is divided into three sections: Palazzo dei Conservatori, Tabularium, and Palazzo Nuovo.We entered through Palazzo dei Conservatori and our eyes went immediately to the colossal head in the courtyard.
Un-freakin'-believable.
It's one thing to see it in photos, a whole other experience to see it in person.
The head, along with the other body parts, is from the Colossus of Constantine, a seated statue that measured 12 meters high. Just the head itself is impressive enough! I can't even imagine how intimidating the statue looked when whole.
"The sky is that-a way."
Nike should definitely utilize this in one of their athletic footwear ads. 
Marcus Aurelius
One of the good emperors. A replica now greets visitors as they climb up the Cordonata and enter the piazza. This photo was taken for you LH.
The Capitoline Museum's collection is small, especially when compared to that of the Vatican Museum, but full of masterpieces and beautifully-curated.
Bernini's Medusa; Boy with Thorn (" Spinario")
Of course, it helps that the rooms displaying these artifacts are in themselves pieces of art.
I love the SPQRs all over the ceiling.
Capitoline Wolf again. But the original this time.
Bronze Hercules standing guard near the washrooms.
Ready to clobber anyone who forgot to flush.
Relief of Marcus Aurelius in Triumph
Note how his son Commodus, who should have been by his side on the chariot, has been chiseled out. And now I can't get the image of Joaquin Phoenix as Commodus out of my head.
Lapidary Gallery
Tabularium, the state archives of ancient Rome, offered a fantastic view of the Roman Forum.
Palazzo Nuovo - MarforioMarforio used to be one of the "talking statues" of Rome. Starting in the 16th century, satires and political criticisms would be posted, anonymously of course, on or near these statues, which would then be copied and highly circulated among the masses.
This group of statues were also known as the "Congregation of Wits".
Marforio is now part of a fountain and speaks no more.
I love these Egyptian monkeys. They make me smile.
Hall of statues; The Wounded Amazon
(from the Villa d'Este, and one of many copies/reinterpretations of an original Greek sculpture)
A standout in the sea of white marbles - Faun in Rouge Marble. Originally from Hadrian's Villa in Tivoli, which we would visit the next day.
A statue of baby Hercules that I find deeply unsettling.
I don't know if it's his creepy face or his strangely proportioned half-baby half-adult body...
Stop staring at me, creepy baby.
Great Hall
Hall of the Emperors
Quite a number of busts were on loan to another museum, as can be seen from the voids, so alas, no Caesar, Augustus, or Hadrian.
Hall of Philosophers
Mosiac of the Theatrical Masks
The mosiacwork is so fine that it has a painting-like quality. And in fact I did mistake it as a painting/extremely-well-preserved fresco when taking this photo. It came from Hadrian's Villa, along with another well-known mosiac masterpiece, Mosaic of the Doves (not pictured but also at the Capitoline Museum). This mosaic really gives you an idea of the opulence and mastery that decorated Hadrian's Villa, which would be sorely needed during our visit there.
To cap off the visit, the Capitoline Venus
I never felt too much one way or the other about the Capitoline Museum, but, after reading your write up of it, I think it might be one of my favourites! There are so many great pieces here. I think I could have spent all day here.
ReplyDeleteHeehee, thanks for that shot of Marcus Aurelius. Good to know he's getting some sun cover, as an emperor should!
How great would it be to have something like the Hall of Statues in your own home? Haha. And I'm not even afraid they would come to life.
It's a great museum - not so big that you leave feeling exhausted, but with enough great pieces that there's something surprising in every corner. Funnily enough, I passed through a room displaying ancient Roman coinage on my way to the bathroom. But tried as I might, I could not find my way back to the room afterwards. Super strange.
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