Wanting to explore more outside of Rome this time around, I came across the town of Tivoli, just north-east of Rome and about an hour's journey by bus/train.
Thanks to the internet and the website RonInRome, which offered a very detailed guide on how to get to Villa d'Este, we made our way to the Tiburtina station, bought (and validated, always always validate) our tickets, and got on the train with very little issue.
Most of the online advice seemed to lean towards the COTRAL bus in lieu of the train. The bus is more frequent, slightly faster, and stops by the main town square, which saves you from an extra 10 minute walk to Villa d'Este. Price-wise, I think they are about on par.
And while my original plan did involve taking the bus, I had a change of heart.
More than a few people had commented on overcrowding on the buses, even with their frequency. The online guide even made a point to advise getting seats on the bus as the number one priority, validating tickets second. Having to stand for the better part of an hour as the bus go up/down hills is not my idea of fun, especially after a whole day of walking.
Also, train>bus ALWAYS.
We bought the local bus (CAT) tickets from a very nice woman operating a tabacchi in front of the station. She was kind enough to offer us directions to Villa d'Este and seemed genuinely surprised when I told her that I wanted to take the bridge path instead (which saves about 5 minutes of walking time and is less uphill).
View from the bridge.
We came across this mystery castle on our way through town. Upon research, this 554 year-old castle is called Rocca Pia (after the pope who decreed its construction) and was built to to deter revolts in Tivoli.
It was then used as a prison from the Napoleonic period up to 1960s (wow!!)
Unfortunately, it is not open to the public.
This is what I love about European towns/cities. You never know what's around the corner. A medieval castle-turned-prison? An art nouveau/art deco cafe? A marble fountain with allegorical carvings? Yes, yes, and yes please.
Villa d'Este
Other than the mosaic sign, the outside walls were quite plain. Surprisingly so.
Maybe that's the point, a stark counterpoint to the lovely villa and gardens contained within.
The villa was commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, whose mother is the renowned (at least to me, through HBO's The Borgias. Once again, dear TV, you have taught me so much) Lucrezia Borgia.
Entering the courtyard, you are greeted by the first of many fountains to come - The Fountain of Venus.
The stoney vine branches look as if they will come alive and grow at any moment. It will never cease to amaze me the mastery of Italian sculptors.
See how the bed of ferns is wonderfully incorporated into the statue. So lovely.
We quickly passed through the villa and headed straight to the gardens, well-known for its numerous and resplendent fountains.
Once upon a time, many more statues resided in these gardens, as evident by the now vacant crevices and alcoves. Most of which (along with marble materials) were pillaged from the nearby Hadrian's Villa, which we visited later in the day. Many of the statues were then taken from the villa and now reside in museums, such as the Vatican. Talk about karma.
Fountain of the Owl
That's all of the gardens methinks, but honestly, I would not be surprised to have missed something. While the gardens of Villa d'Este are tiny compared with that of Versailles, there are just so many wondrous and unique surprises tucked into every crevice and corner that sometimes you simply don't know where to look.
And it's quiet too. There were only a scattering of tourists and one or two school groups (again, European kids are so lucky). It wasn't at all difficult to find a quiet corner to just relax for a bit.
So... that's it for Villa d'Este....
oh right, there's the actual villa itself too. Umm... pretty frescoes? After the gardens, the villa seemed kind of pedestrian. Also, half of it was closed (either that, or I simply couldn't find the right doorway. Let's all agree that it's the former.)
And I leave you with a final photo of a lemon tree in the Villa d'Este courtyard.
Thanks to the internet and the website RonInRome, which offered a very detailed guide on how to get to Villa d'Este, we made our way to the Tiburtina station, bought (and validated, always always validate) our tickets, and got on the train with very little issue.
Most of the online advice seemed to lean towards the COTRAL bus in lieu of the train. The bus is more frequent, slightly faster, and stops by the main town square, which saves you from an extra 10 minute walk to Villa d'Este. Price-wise, I think they are about on par.
And while my original plan did involve taking the bus, I had a change of heart.
More than a few people had commented on overcrowding on the buses, even with their frequency. The online guide even made a point to advise getting seats on the bus as the number one priority, validating tickets second. Having to stand for the better part of an hour as the bus go up/down hills is not my idea of fun, especially after a whole day of walking.
Also, train>bus ALWAYS.
The train from Rome-Tiburtina to Tivoli only cost 2.60 euros (~$3.50
cad), so much cheaper than the GO train when you compare by
distance. And the train is comfy and clean. Toronto, you need to take notes.
The pastoral views from the train. Please excuse the dirty window.
We made it.
Strangely, there's no underground/overpass from the farther tracks to the station. We simply followed everyone else and just walked right across the train tracks. When in Italy...
Double drinking fountain. First time I've seen such a thing and now I want one.
We bought the local bus (CAT) tickets from a very nice woman operating a tabacchi in front of the station. She was kind enough to offer us directions to Villa d'Este and seemed genuinely surprised when I told her that I wanted to take the bridge path instead (which saves about 5 minutes of walking time and is less uphill).View from the bridge.
We came across this mystery castle on our way through town. Upon research, this 554 year-old castle is called Rocca Pia (after the pope who decreed its construction) and was built to to deter revolts in Tivoli.It was then used as a prison from the Napoleonic period up to 1960s (wow!!)
Unfortunately, it is not open to the public.
This is what I love about European towns/cities. You never know what's around the corner. A medieval castle-turned-prison? An art nouveau/art deco cafe? A marble fountain with allegorical carvings? Yes, yes, and yes please.
Villa d'EsteOther than the mosaic sign, the outside walls were quite plain. Surprisingly so.
Maybe that's the point, a stark counterpoint to the lovely villa and gardens contained within.
The villa was commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito d'Este, whose mother is the renowned (at least to me, through HBO's The Borgias. Once again, dear TV, you have taught me so much) Lucrezia Borgia.
Entering the courtyard, you are greeted by the first of many fountains to come - The Fountain of Venus.The stoney vine branches look as if they will come alive and grow at any moment. It will never cease to amaze me the mastery of Italian sculptors.
See how the bed of ferns is wonderfully incorporated into the statue. So lovely.
We quickly passed through the villa and headed straight to the gardens, well-known for its numerous and resplendent fountains.
Partial view of the gardens with an aerial view of the Biccherione ("Big Glass") Fountain
The English-version map found online, which proved to be far more useful than the Italian-only version supplied by the ticket-seller.
Views of the villa from the gardens.
The many, many, many "lesser" fountains of Villa d'Este. Biccherione Fountain, Fountain of Leda and Tripod; Fountain of Europa and Pegasus, Unnamed fountain; Rotunda of the Cypresses, Unnamed fountain; Fountain of Pluto and Persephone
Once upon a time, many more statues resided in these gardens, as evident by the now vacant crevices and alcoves. Most of which (along with marble materials) were pillaged from the nearby Hadrian's Villa, which we visited later in the day. Many of the statues were then taken from the villa and now reside in museums, such as the Vatican. Talk about karma.
Fountain of Tivoli/Oval Fountain
Hidden from this perspective are the three water features symbolizing the nearby rivers Aniene, Erculaneo and Albuneo just above the parapet.
The Hundred Fountains
In my mind, the defining water feature of Villa d'Este. This photo does not do this fountain justice. It's wonderfully unique, beautiful, and with a splendid touch of whimsy.
Each fountain features an uniquely different face, a fantastical spectrum of creature-animal-human. I wish now that I had taken more photos of the individual fountain faces.
Even the basin wall has a face of its own!
A fascinating glimpse behind the scenes.
The official fountain cleaner, whose job is to declog each fountain with giant pipe cleaners. He actually had a very specific way of using the pipe cleaners, which I assume reduces potential damage to the fountain itself. After all, these are 500+ years old. Can you imagine if a fountain head just pops off during the cleaning process?
Fountain of the Organ
A fountain with a built-in musical organ powered wholly by water. Alas, it was not playing at the time of our visit. I found out much too late that it plays every two hours. A fact that none of the travel guides, or the official villa map, mentioned. A very strange oversight. If you're interested in hearing what the organ sounds like, people have posted videos on Youtube.
View of the Fish Ponds (with actual fish)
and breeding ground for some sneaky mosquitoes. I never saw them coming.
and breeding ground for some sneaky mosquitoes. I never saw them coming.
Fountain of the Dragons
Fountain of Neptune
The planters lining the fish ponds are of orange trees. So tempting-looking...
Rotunda of the Cypresses
If only these trees could talk... the stories they could tell.
Some 1691 engravings show how the gardens once looked.
Really fascinating. Link for more engravings is embedded.
Fountain of Diana of Ephesus (Mother Nature)
Mete Sudanti ("Sweating Cones") Funtains
These fountains were modeled after the Meta Sudans, a conical drinking fountain once situated near the Coliseum in Rome (although the word "sweating", along with "oozing", are not something that should be used to describe drinking water, ever).
Despite their modern look, they fit surprisingly well with the rest of the garden.
Fountain of the Owl
At first, I thought it to be a misnomer since tried as I might, not an owl was in sight. There were eagles (symbol of the d'Este family) aplenty. Turns out, the fountain has a hydro-powered mechanism where an owl figurine would swoop in and the songbird figurines would disappear in response, complete with sound effects. The once-bronze figurines have been replaced with wooden cutouts.
This mechanism is supposedly turned on every two hours. Again, why was this information not on the travel guides? Why?!?! But since I can't find any videos showing the owl mechanism, I have serious doubts that it is still fully functional. The only video available only shows the fountain playing songbird sounds. A little disappointing.
The Rometta/Rome Fountain
complete with a statue of the she-wolf feeding Romus and Remus.
The other half of the Rometta Fountain
complete with sullen-looking Italian teens.
complete with sullen-looking Italian teens.
Aerial view
Grotto of Diana and Venus
Now past its prime and devoid of its goddess statues but a look at the ceiling gives you an idea of its splendor once upon a time.
That's all of the gardens methinks, but honestly, I would not be surprised to have missed something. While the gardens of Villa d'Este are tiny compared with that of Versailles, there are just so many wondrous and unique surprises tucked into every crevice and corner that sometimes you simply don't know where to look.
And it's quiet too. There were only a scattering of tourists and one or two school groups (again, European kids are so lucky). It wasn't at all difficult to find a quiet corner to just relax for a bit.
So... that's it for Villa d'Este....
oh right, there's the actual villa itself too. Umm... pretty frescoes? After the gardens, the villa seemed kind of pedestrian. Also, half of it was closed (either that, or I simply couldn't find the right doorway. Let's all agree that it's the former.)
And I leave you with a final photo of a lemon tree in the Villa d'Este courtyard.
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