9.13.2012 Paris, France (Day 2.5)

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (Place du Carrousel)
The other triumphal arc, it is modeled after the Arc of Constantine in Rome. Like its brethren, Arc de Triomphe, this arc commiserates the triumphs of Napoleon Bonaparte. The bronze standing on top is that of Peace riding in her chariot and if the four bronze horses look familiar, it might be because they are copies of the famous horses of St. Mark's Basilica in Venice.

The Place du Carrousel is the open space inbetween the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden, where the Tuileries Palace once stood.

Louvre Museum
At last, the famous glass pyramid by I.M. Pei. We arrived relatively early so we only had to wait about 15 minutes to get through security. If I had purchased the Museum Pass ahead of time, we could have gone through the express lane (drat!)

It took me another 20 minutes to locate where to purchase Museum Pass (hint: it's not at the ticket counter).

I think next time I would like to enter through the Porte des Lions entrance - fewer people and closer to the Mona Lisa.

The museum is split into three wings: Denon, Sully, and Richelieu. Since there was no possible way we could go through the entire museum, we decided to focus solely on the museum's Greatest Hits in the Denon Wing. This is one instance where the museum map became indispensable. The Louvre pinpoints all the "must-sees" on its map, making it much easier on the visitors.

Vénus en Arms ("Armed Venus") (left)
Like the rest of the Borghese Collection, the statue was acquired by Napoleon from his brother-in-law. It likely

Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities

Sculptures, Sculptures, and more Sculptures 

There were just so many amazing sculptures that I literally forgot that I was holding a camera in my hand. Here are the photos I did manage to take.

Minerva (left) ; Maria Duglioli Barberini by Giuliano Finelli (right)

The lace collar detail on the bust is unbelievable.

Dirce by Lorenzo Bartolini

Psyche and Cupid by Antonio Canova

Flying Mercury by Giambologna (left); Portal of the Stanga Palace at Cremona(right), decorated with the heroes Hercules and Perseus; and Nymph of Fountainbleu by Benvenuto Cellini (bottom)

Paintings, French and Italian

Napoleon and Josephine. It seems only fitting that the two paintings are posted side-by-side. 

 Napoleon Crossing the Alps by Paul Delaroche (left); and Empress Josephine by Pierre-Paul Prud'hon (right)

The Coronation of Napoleon by Jacques-Louis David. 

Originally at Versailles, the original has been moved to the Louvre and replaced with a copy. The painting is huge and the details exquisite. I love the fact that Napoleon had his mother painted in despite her absence.

The Mona Lisa
This was the crowd I encountered in front of the Mona Lisa (yikes!) There is no line, only a people blob. I debated whether or not to enter the blob for fear I might not be able to escape. I said a prayer and became one with the blob.

Eventually, I was able to make my way to the front and snap this photo. When it became obvious that I would not be the one to solve the "mystery" of the Mona Lisa (whatever it was), I made my exit. Under such heavy protective measures, it is almost impossible to truly appreciate Da Vinci's work. If the Louvre had replaced it with a semi-decent reproduction, I doubt the crowd would have known the difference.

Winged Victory of Samothrace... and her hand

It might be hard to tell from the photo but this statue is incredibly moving in person. Her stance and the rippling of her dress all contribute to the imagery of overcoming great adversity. She was reunited with her right hand after hundreds, if not thousands, of years apart (the statue was excavated in 1863, the hand in 1950).

 

Apollo Gallery

Puuurtty.

Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities (Contd...)

Venus de Milo

Did you know that the Statue was once painted and adorned with jewlery? And that, in her original state, she holds an apple in her hand? Personally, I think she looks pretty good just the way she is right now.

Athena aka Pallas of Velletri

At 10 ft (that's 3.05 m), Athena cuts an impressive figure. Although a copy of a lost Greek bronze, Athena statues of this style (helmeted) are referred to as the Velletri style (Velletri being the town where this statue was discovered).

Imagine this statue, twice-thrice as large and brightly painted, in a temple dedicated to the goddess, surrounded by devoted worshippers. That must have been quite a sight!

Three Graces 

Aglaea ("Splendor"), Euphrosyne ("Mirth"), and Thalia ("Good Cheer")

Just thought I would throw in an animal sculpture. You know, to offset all the humans.

Diana of Versailles 

Perhaps my favourite piece. The statue just strikes a chord.

Room of the Carytides

 

Apartments of Napoleon III
Umm.. for some reason, we decided to visit the Apartments of Napoleon III despite not knowing anything about who he was. Napoleon III? Who?

Cliff's Notes: Napoleon III was the first president and last monarch of France. He was also the nephew AND step-grandson of Napoleon Bonaparte (You did not misread that last sentence - Napoleon I's step-daughter Hortense married his brother Louis and begot Napoleon III.)

He was elected president but staged a coup to seized total power and in effect, become the Emperor of France. Following his defeat and capture in the Battle of Sedan, he was overthrown by the Third Republic and exiled to England. Napoleon III's 18-year reign marked the end of the monarchy in France.

These were his apartments.

French Crown Jewels
Originally displayed in the Apollo Gallery, these are only a very small portion of the museum's collection. They are awaiting for the opening of a brand-new section of the museum. At least, that's what the sign said. 

We had to say goodbye to the Louvre despite probably having only seen 1/50 of its vast collections. It will have to suffice for this trip. Of course, I couldn't leave without a photo-op next to the smaller, inverted glass pyramid. Next visit: the Code of Hammurabi for sure.

General Tips for the Louvre:
- Buy the Museum Pass ahead of time.
- Download the museum map beforehand and take the time to map out a route.
- If you're planning to visit the Mona Lisa, visit the Louvre either really early or really late and make it your first or last stop.
- Do not, I repeat, DO NOT eat at the international food court in the mall (yes, there is an underground mall, complete with a food court, connected to the Louvre)

Chestnut Trees in the Tuileries Gardens

Musee D'Orsay
If you are a fan of the Impressionists, Art Deco, or Art Nouveau, this is THE museum for you. I'm a huge fan of all three so I really enjoyed this museum. Even my usually-picky travelmates loved this museum, a refreshing change from the more ornate and detailed-oriented artistic styles we've been exposed to so far.

No photos allowed so take my word for it. I loved loved LOVED Degas' paintings of ballet dancers. So wonderful!

The one safe place to take photos - the cafe, which is situated in one of the building's giant clocks (which are no longer working, I think) Isn't it such a neat backdrop for the cafe? Like something out of a movie. 

Arc de Triomphe Revisited
There wasn't enough time to visit Napoleon's Tomb (drat!)at the Invalides or Museum Rodin (double drat!) Instead, we re-visited the Arc de Triomphe.

Since the arc is situated in a traffic circle, you have to first go through an underground tunnel, the entrance of which is close to the Wagram metro station exit.

Climbing up the stairs wasn't too bad. It was the climb down that proved to be problematic. If you don't stop every two-three rotations, it's very easy to become disorientated. Just looking at the stairs is making me slightly dizzy again.

But the view at the top... oh my!

Fan-freakin'-tastic.