Civitavecchia to Rome by Train
Our cruise ship disembarked at the port town of Civitavecchia, about an hour's drive from Rome. We then took the train to Rome. The ride was scenic and I really enjoyed seeing the smaller towns/cities on the outskirts of Rome. But word of advice, don't take the train if your luggage is any bigger than a carry-on. The aisles are small and the luggage storage space is basically an overhead rack.
Other than that, the trains in Rome is a really economical way to travel. Well, I like riding trains so my opinions are more than likely a little biased.
The Colosseum
After dropping off our luggage, the Colosseum was our first stop of the day. We took the metro, which is comparable to the TTC, quality-wise (meaning functional, but not so easy on the eyes.)
Ta Da! And there the Colosseum stood, right outside the metro station (conveniently named "Colosseo".) It's hard to describe the thoughts running through my head after seeing the Colosseum for the first time, but it may be best summed up with "HOLY MOLY!!!"
We already bought the RomaPass beforehand at the central train/metro station (Roma Termini) so we were able to skip the SUPER long line outside (so long suckers!!!)
The stadium floor is all but gone and a partial flooring has been reconstructed. Did you know that the Coliseum was full of machinery - stage lifts and trapdoors for the gladiators and wild animals - back in its glory days? There was even a hydraulic system! Ancient records have indicated that the entire stadium floor could be submerged under water when necessary(!!!), although how the feat was achieved is still under debate.
There are more layers to the Coliseum than a freakin' onion (I jest), not including the partially-gone outer wall. The really bad photo mash-up below gives a transected view.
Hypogeum
The series of underground tunnels and rooms where wild beasts and gladiator were held prior to matches. There are also tunnels leading from the Coliseum to the gladiator barracks and the animal stables. (Oh to be able to walk through the hypogeum!)
According to online resources, there is another level underneath the one shown here. The Coliseum was unbelievably sophisticated in its design. It hosted an audience of 50,000-80,000 (depending who you ask) whom could all be evacuated within minutes using the 80 entrances available.
A large awning, called the velarium, once covered a large portion of the stadium, shielding the audience from the sun. Its original intent, however, was to divert the wind as to create ventilation for the crowd. Brilliant, no? The velarium even has its own, albeit short, wiki entry. That's how special it is.
Arch of Constantine
The Frankenstein of triumphal arches, this arch was pieced together using both old ("spolia") and new material. There are reliefs/sculptures dating from Hadrian (him again!), Trajan, and Marcus Aurelius (three of the "Five Good Emperors." Not too shabby!)
This is why you'll see a mixture of styles on the arch - the older Hellenistic style where the faces are more realistic and the figures more spaced out, and the contemporary style where the faces are more cartoonish (the eyes are freakishly large) and the figures crowded.
In a few cases, the sculptural face of a predecessor was replaced with that of Constantine. Gives a whole new meaning to recycling.
Roman Forum
We entered the Roman Forum+Palatine Hill through the eastern entrance (which is cut off from the map shown) Once again, the Roma Pass meant no waiting in line for us (sweet!) Did you know that the Colosseum+Roman Forum+Palatine Hill is only considered one ticket? (double sweet!)
Anyways, in spite of all the areas that ancient Romans did excel in, urban planning does not seem to be one of them. Walking through the Forum, it's hard to tell at times whether you are on the road or just walking through unknown ruins. Maybe at one time, the Forum was much better organized, who knows?
Definitely bring a map/guide with you, because there are no signs. I used Rick Steve's free audio guide, which I found useful but lacking linearity.
Arch of Titus (Right)
Much better looking than its younger cousin, the Arch of Constantine, don't you agree? The Arch of Titus has undergone a relatively recent, but extensive facelift, hence the much brighter overall look.
It served as the model for the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The arch commemorates emperor Titus' successful siege of Jerusalem
Rocks are strewn nonchalantly along the paths, in a manner suggesting they are just discarded construction material and not thousand-years-old relics. A lot of the visitors use them as impromptu rest stools. If you look carefully, really cool motifs (like this bull's head) can be found amidst the rubble.
Temple of Julius Caesar
From the current looks of the temple(left), little remains of its former glory(right). Dedicated by Augustus to his "father" Julius Caesar whom was the first Roman to be deified, this temple was built at the exact site where Caesar was cremated after his assassination. It is also where Mark Anthony gave the rousing speech that will forever be remembered in Shakespeare's rendition.
Flowers for Caesar.
Without Julius Caesar, the Roman Empire would not have existed. He was the instigator. For empire-dom. For the whole consul/dictator-for-life shebang.
All this talk of Caesar makes me want to re-watch HBO's Rome.
From left to right: Temple of Saturn; Column of Phocas; Rosatra (Orator's Platform); and Arch of Septimius Severus. Just poking out from behind the Arch of Septimius Severus is one of the bronze chariots from the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (aka the "Great Typewriter"). And the buildings in the backdrop? Those are the Captoline Hill Museums.
At this point, people from my group were too tired to press forward. So despite having only seen a third of the entire site, we had to turn back. I was bitterly disappointed, that's for sure. Oh well, it does give me an even better excuse to return. I can't wait until my next visit: I'm going to get up close and personal to the Temple of Saturn, climb the Palatine Hill, and visit the Capitoline Museums where the famouse She-Wolf statue is now housed.
Can't wait!
Our cruise ship disembarked at the port town of Civitavecchia, about an hour's drive from Rome. We then took the train to Rome. The ride was scenic and I really enjoyed seeing the smaller towns/cities on the outskirts of Rome. But word of advice, don't take the train if your luggage is any bigger than a carry-on. The aisles are small and the luggage storage space is basically an overhead rack.
Other than that, the trains in Rome is a really economical way to travel. Well, I like riding trains so my opinions are more than likely a little biased.
The Colosseum
After dropping off our luggage, the Colosseum was our first stop of the day. We took the metro, which is comparable to the TTC, quality-wise (meaning functional, but not so easy on the eyes.)
Ta Da! And there the Colosseum stood, right outside the metro station (conveniently named "Colosseo".) It's hard to describe the thoughts running through my head after seeing the Colosseum for the first time, but it may be best summed up with "HOLY MOLY!!!"
We already bought the RomaPass beforehand at the central train/metro station (Roma Termini) so we were able to skip the SUPER long line outside (so long suckers!!!)
Ground level arcade (left); staircase (middle); and second level inner arcade (right)
View of the Arch of Constantine from the second story (left); and
staircase leading to the third story (right).
There are more layers to the Coliseum than a freakin' onion (I jest), not including the partially-gone outer wall. The really bad photo mash-up below gives a transected view.
HypogeumThe series of underground tunnels and rooms where wild beasts and gladiator were held prior to matches. There are also tunnels leading from the Coliseum to the gladiator barracks and the animal stables. (Oh to be able to walk through the hypogeum!)
According to online resources, there is another level underneath the one shown here. The Coliseum was unbelievably sophisticated in its design. It hosted an audience of 50,000-80,000 (depending who you ask) whom could all be evacuated within minutes using the 80 entrances available.
A large awning, called the velarium, once covered a large portion of the stadium, shielding the audience from the sun. Its original intent, however, was to divert the wind as to create ventilation for the crowd. Brilliant, no? The velarium even has its own, albeit short, wiki entry. That's how special it is.
Arch of ConstantineThe Frankenstein of triumphal arches, this arch was pieced together using both old ("spolia") and new material. There are reliefs/sculptures dating from Hadrian (him again!), Trajan, and Marcus Aurelius (three of the "Five Good Emperors." Not too shabby!)
This is why you'll see a mixture of styles on the arch - the older Hellenistic style where the faces are more realistic and the figures more spaced out, and the contemporary style where the faces are more cartoonish (the eyes are freakishly large) and the figures crowded.
In a few cases, the sculptural face of a predecessor was replaced with that of Constantine. Gives a whole new meaning to recycling.
We entered the Roman Forum+Palatine Hill through the eastern entrance (which is cut off from the map shown) Once again, the Roma Pass meant no waiting in line for us (sweet!) Did you know that the Colosseum+Roman Forum+Palatine Hill is only considered one ticket? (double sweet!)
Anyways, in spite of all the areas that ancient Romans did excel in, urban planning does not seem to be one of them. Walking through the Forum, it's hard to tell at times whether you are on the road or just walking through unknown ruins. Maybe at one time, the Forum was much better organized, who knows?
Definitely bring a map/guide with you, because there are no signs. I used Rick Steve's free audio guide, which I found useful but lacking linearity.Arch of Titus (Right)
Much better looking than its younger cousin, the Arch of Constantine, don't you agree? The Arch of Titus has undergone a relatively recent, but extensive facelift, hence the much brighter overall look.
It served as the model for the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The arch commemorates emperor Titus' successful siege of Jerusalem
Santa Francesca Romana
Foreground: Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine (?)
This photo was taken from a really bad angle. The basillica (what's remaining) is so much more impressive than this photo lets on. It has three ginormous vaults, each at least 5-6 stories high. It's definitely one of the largest, if not the largest, buildings in the Forum.
Santi Cosma e Damiano (aka Temple of Romulus)
...and the original bronze doors, one of the oldest in Rome.
FYI: The Romulus referenced here is not the founder of Rome (although he surely deserves one!), but Valerius Romulus, a son of the emperor Maxentius.
Overview of the Forum
Temple of Castor and Pollux (left); Temple of Vesta (right)
House of the Vestal Virgins (foreground);
House of Livia(?) (under-renovation: background)
House of Livia(?) (under-renovation: background)
Rocks are strewn nonchalantly along the paths, in a manner suggesting they are just discarded construction material and not thousand-years-old relics. A lot of the visitors use them as impromptu rest stools. If you look carefully, really cool motifs (like this bull's head) can be found amidst the rubble.
Temple of Julius Caesar
From the current looks of the temple(left), little remains of its former glory(right). Dedicated by Augustus to his "father" Julius Caesar whom was the first Roman to be deified, this temple was built at the exact site where Caesar was cremated after his assassination. It is also where Mark Anthony gave the rousing speech that will forever be remembered in Shakespeare's rendition.
Flowers for Caesar.Without Julius Caesar, the Roman Empire would not have existed. He was the instigator. For empire-dom. For the whole consul/dictator-for-life shebang.
All this talk of Caesar makes me want to re-watch HBO's Rome.
The paths of the Forum.
Once upon a time, these roads were paved with marble slabs and walked upon by emperors (okay, more likely walked upon by slaves carrying the emperors. Technicalities!)
From left to right: Temple of Saturn; Column of Phocas; Rosatra (Orator's Platform); and Arch of Septimius Severus. Just poking out from behind the Arch of Septimius Severus is one of the bronze chariots from the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (aka the "Great Typewriter"). And the buildings in the backdrop? Those are the Captoline Hill Museums.
Temple of Vesta
Atrium in the House of the Vestal Virgins
Not shown is the two pools facing the statues. The statues are of prominent Vestal Virgins. Unfortunately, the majority of the group on display seemed to have lost their heads. Metaphoric for the demise of Vesta worship?
At this point, people from my group were too tired to press forward. So despite having only seen a third of the entire site, we had to turn back. I was bitterly disappointed, that's for sure. Oh well, it does give me an even better excuse to return. I can't wait until my next visit: I'm going to get up close and personal to the Temple of Saturn, climb the Palatine Hill, and visit the Capitoline Museums where the famouse She-Wolf statue is now housed. Can't wait!
A final look at the Coliseum. Still damn spectacular.
Our hotel room. So pruuuuuutty.
No comments:
Post a Comment