Monday, December 20, 2010

See you soon

I should preface this by saying that in anticipation of all the shopping I was planning to do, I brought one full suitcase and one empty suitcase to Taiwan.

This is a picture of our luggage (minus one suitcase) as we prepared to come back to Canada. Every single one of them packed to the brim. Even the carry on cases. Why? Because my mother decided to bring as much as her stuff that was left behind in Taiwan as humanly possible. I felt like a drug mule, "smuggling" in all her stuff in my luggage. .




Sun setting as we leave for the airport. Bye Taiwan, hope to see you soon! There are still so many places/food/things I still want to visit/eat/try!

Taipei Train Station, CKS Memorial, National Palace Museum, and JiuFen

This is going to be one looooong post, so bear with me.

Taipei Train Station
This is where you'd come if you're the average consumer. Behind the Taipei Train Station is one of the best places to just browse. There are two underground shopping streets, lots of departmental stores, and stationery stores (my favourite!)
I only had an hour (which was NOT enough at all) so I really only went to a couple of stores. Daiso, a Japanese discount store, that's basically the equivalent to our Dollarama. The line at the cashier was just too long and there were too much pink/cuteness.
Right across from Daiso was this two-metered Gundam model. I believe the coolness factor just went up. There were actually three of them, but I liked this one the best. So much so I risked looking like a total tourist and snapped pictures.

I also went into Muji. It's a high caliber Japanese store known for their "no name" branding. They are supposed to be all about design. While I find the lack of colour in their stuff a little uncomfortable, I am in love with their "organization" section. Look at that wall with containers/organizers of every size imaginable all stacked up so nice and neat. Isn't it just a beautiful sight?


Sidenote: Since convenience stores like 7-11 are everywhere in Taiwan, there's always some sort of promotion going on, which usually involve collecting limited figurines/toys. To get the toy, you have to first collect an x number of stickers. And you can get a sticker for an x amount of dollars spent. Spend=>stickers=>toy. Get it?
People can get pretty crazy with the collecting especially since you can't ask the store for a specific toy to complete your collection. So there's a huge black market trading these stuff.
I actually started collecting during the trip not because I wanted the toy (it would have been nice, but highly unlikely since you need 30 stickers to get a toy and I only had three after two weeks), but rather the stickers. There were five available and each is a character from Doraemon, a Japanese comic I loved when I was younger. You really don't need to spend a lot of money to get a sticker. A $2 Cdn purchase would get you a sticker. I just didn't buy stuff from the convenience store on a regular basis. All I wanted was a complete set, and this is why I was so mad at my dad. He had a TON of stickers and he gave them all away while I, his own flesh and blood, just needed two more to complete my set!!!
Yep, that collection frenzy really gets you when you least expect it. Bravo, advertising company that thought up this scheme, bravo!

P.S. by the very end of my trip, I was still one shy of a full set, but I guess that's life.

CKS Memorial

This is one of the "it" tourist spots in Taiwan. CKS (short for "Chiang Kai-shek") was Taiwan's first president.
Left: one of the side entrances.
Right: the main entrance is in the distance. The two adjacent buildings are the National Theatre and the National Concert Hall. Gloomy day, hence the lack of tourists.

I think this is the National Theatre. Truth be told, I've never been in it, but if the inside is anything like the outside, it should be pretty spectacular.

The park surrounding the theatre. One of my favourite things to do as a kid was to come here and feed the fish.

They have special vending machines that sell carp food (even the machine is shaped like a carp). These tended to break a lot when I was young. I think people liked to mess with them.



Look at all those fat-looking carp. On average, they're about the size of a large loaf of French bread. These fish are super spoiled. Unfortunately, the park people have to replenish the carp every now and then because people tend to release other fish (the blackish looking ones in the picture) in the pond that out-competes and eventually, wipe out the carp.






National Palace Museum

Another "must see" destination. It houses so much historical artifacts and artwork that only a small fraction is displayed at a single time.

Things that I found to be really awesome:

1. The Qing-dynasty ceramic work. Because Qing was the very last dynasty, the cermaic techniques at that point is extremely refined. The details of the craftsmanship, unbelievable! There are vases with hundreds of painted birds, deer, butterflies, no two are even the same.

2. Curio cabinets. It's what royalty kept their treasures and collections. It's common for them to have secret compartments and neat little mechanisms to unlock certain features. Really ingenious work.

3. Miniature tusk carvings. The things the artisans made using elephant tusks. Balls that have moving layers but no seams. Miniature food baskets no bigger than a stack of 5 pennies complete with meals inside and utensils.

On the way out, I came across a stamping station, something that's really common in tourist destinations. Basically, stamps are available for your perusal as a form of keepsake. The stamps are unique per destination. I had a lot of fun tracking them down and adding to my little book. I wish we have something similar here.


"Gold Melon Rock" and JiuFen

When I read that the spirit town in Miyazaki's "Spirit Away" was based on an actual town in Taiwan, of course I had to go there. To get there, we had to take a special express bus. Look at my seat pass. Cute, no? Only in Taiwan.
The bus took us by the sea into the moutains.

We went to "Gold Melon Rock" first, which is a little further than JiuFen. It used to be a gold mine back in the Japanese colonial days. So lots of Japanese influences in the buildings.

We visited a renovated Japanese-styled duplex. Meant for three families, the renovation knocked through the walls, connecting all three units. This way, they allowed us to see what it was like inside when the Japanese were residing versus the nationalists later on.






Japanese-styled interior.
Nationalists-styled interior.












Left: pathway leading up to the gold museum.

Right: gold grasshoppers exhibit.

I got to touch a 220 kg gold brick (worth about $8 million Cdn, crazy)



Lovely pictures from JiuFen. The winding roads and steps past all the busy vendors, the red lanterns. They do make you feel like you're in another time. At night, once the lanterns are lit, I bet it's another scene altogether. It might even be a little spooky when the fog start to come in. Perfect setting for a ghost story.






It's all about food (Part II)

Japanese Bell Cakes

These bell-shaped cakes were all the rage once-upon-a-time in Taiwan. They were so popular that people were issued pagers to let them know when their order would be ready. They're filled with custardy-goodness. Supposedly even better when frozen but every single of of them was eaten so I didn't get a chance to test that rumour (okay, I confess that I ate two while everyone else just ate one. They were just so warm and delicious, I couldn't help myself).

Din Tai Fong

The most famous dumplings store in Taiwan/East Asia (It has its own Wiki page!!!). I mean, look at the picture, the dumpling is the store mascot, for goodness' sake!

And take a look at the people lining up. It was basically bus after bus unloading group after group of tourists. The group right here is from Japan. The television monitor in the background is showing customer testimonials. Have you even heard of such a thing for a restaurant? All the servers in this store speak at least one other language other than mandarin. They have little flag pins to indicate the languages they're fluent in.

My dad and I got there super early to line up (I've never been to this place as a kid. Way above my pay grade. My uncle was the one footing the bill, so the least I could do was line up for him).

The famous dumplings. Really good, really hot. Each of them is supposed to have exactly 18 folds at the top. I didn't verify this since I was too busy scarfing down the dumplings. 
More pictures of what we ordered.

Left: wanton soup

Right: shrimp dumplings. Very pretty.



Left: shrimp dumplings - a close up

Right: pine cake dessert. Never had this before. It was interesting. A little too sweet, but interesting texture, really fluffy, but not angel cake fluffy.

I would like to return again, but this place is really for special occasions only.

Friday, December 17, 2010

Maokong, Taipei101, YingGe

Maokong Gondola

Maokong is a really popular destination for night-crawlers. It's best known for its tea and great view of the Taipei city at night. It's one of those experiences every Taipei person should have had in their younger days. Because it's in the mountains, the easiest way up nowadays is to take the gondola. After the gondola ride in Zhangjiajie, this ride was a breeze.
Since the gondola route runs through the metro zoo, all the cars have cute animals painted on the outside. Short on time, I didn't get to see the great pandas. And my dad being my dad, he took me to Maokong during the day, when it's basically empty and most of the teashops closed.

But I can see what everyone is talking about. Even during the day, the view was great. You can even see Taipei101 in the really far distance. The nightscape, I imagine, should be pretty spectacular.

The two cat statues greet you right outside of the gondola station. Maokong literally means "cat empty," hence the kitties. My plan was to go to the Maokong tourism centre to see if I can buy a replica of these kitties, but it was farther than expected and we had to turn back in order to be on time for lunch.



Cuteness is everywhere. On the way from the gondola to the MRT subway, I saw this little guy just sitting innocently outside a shop. Of course I had to take a picture.

And then, 10 steps away, I bumped into this guy - the largest "beckoning cat" I've ever seen. Of course I had to take another picture.

Cuteness overload.
Taipei 101

Impressive no?

It's part shopping mall, part offices, and the very top there is an observation deck.

It held the title of the world's tallest skyscraper just before the current title-holder in Dubai.

The food court in the basement is huge and full of great food. So far, I've only tried a few things down there due to the physical limitations of my stomach. But so far, all the things I've tried had been great. It's prob. understandably so since the rent must be astronomically high in a place like this and the competition extremely fierce. So if the food is sub-par, it gets weeded out pretty fast. 

So, here's something really neat that my parents pointed out to me. To wish for good fortune (i.e. customers), all the stores burn paper money to the gods on a specific day (I want to say the 15th?) every month. It's all based on the lunar calendar, of course. It was strange seeing a table full of offerings, incense, and whatnots right in front of an advertisement for Gucci. Well, I'm glad there are people who are still keeping these traditions alive. 

Interlude: This should really go in the food section, but oh well, it's here anyways. This beef noodle soup with knife-shaved noodles and red soup. We actually discovered this place entirely by accident. No one could decide what to eat that night so we walked around and ended up here. Has a little bit of a fast-food feel to the place. All in all, the food was yummy and the price reasonable. A good find!
YingGe
A ceramic town turned tourist destination. The entire old ceramic district has been renovated since the last time I visited. The roads are nicer and the storefronts more uniformed, all without losing that old town charm.


This is me next to one of the kilns they used to use in the old days. It's remarkable how well it has been preserved. You can walk all the way through. It goes pretty deep, about 150 m.
We stopped by for kiln noodles. They're served in these earthenware pots that keep the noodles nice and warm for a super long time. If only they let customers keep the pots afterward....

We went through a few of the shops, most of which carried high-end ceramic and porcelain. I got some great ideas for ceramic work that I can't wait to try. Our day was cut short by pouring rain. Note to self: invest in a light, collapsible umbrella next time in Taiwan.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

The Middle Kingdom Part IV - The End

Zhangjiajie - Tianzi ("Son of Heaven") Mountain
Unlike Tianmen Mountain, Tianzi is full of rock formations, and is advertised everywhere in the park as the inspiration for the planet Pandora in the film Avatar. I haven't seen the film so I can't really judge.
All I can say is that the pictures here are not really doing it justice. It's like a forested Grand Canyon.

Lots of tourists. I was really surprised at the number of Korean tourists since Zhangjiajie is nowhere near Korea. It's so popular with Koreans that most of the signs have korean translations and the vendors can speak simple korean. I know this because one of them tried to sell me stuff in korean.  


There were a lot of photo kiosks where they take pictures for you. The vendors know all the best angles/scenes and can even laminate the pictures for you. I didn't buy any since I had my own camera. Plus, it was a little off-putting seeing all the computers and printers set up right next to the majestic scenery. It also made avoiding the kiosks in the longshots difficult.
 We took the elevator down the mountain. 300 stories, according to the elevator display. Because there were so many people waiting, they really squeezed as many people as possible per elevator. As a result, I wasn't too scared on the way down simply because the whole thing was just too funny. Or maybe it was because the oxygen was running out. Either way, we landed safe and sound.


A lot of the rock formations have names/scenes associated with them. Some are super apt while others take a little more imagination.

A general inspecting his troops.
An old man carrying a backpack of medicine (in the distance)

The Three Sisters



Yueyang Tower (Hunan)
This tower is also a member of the Four Towers of China. I don't know too much about it except that it was built as a vantage point in a time of war back in the Three Kingdom period. The three stories represent the sky, the person, and the earth. The "tomb" (quotation marks because it doesn't hold the actual body) of a well-known beauty of that period is located near this tower.

It was also rebuilt many times. You can see one of its predecessors as a scale model (right). Puurtty!!!! Imagine one these babies in your backyard. How cool would that be?

Well, that's the end of that.
Our tour guide really sucked on this trip. He didn't know his stuff, basically ditched us at each site, and was super insensitive. Really wanted to sock him in the face the last day - he actually ranted about us TO us for a good hour. The nerve of that guy! But no matter, still saw some interesting stuff and didn't get hoodwinked, so I'd count that as a win.