Anne Frank HouseIt is one of Amsterdam's most popular attractions. Online timed tickets are limited and sell out months in advance, as I sadly found out when trying to buy tickets weeks before the trip. Without tickets, your only recourse would be to wait in line, which are notoriously long and with an average wait time of 2-3 hours.
That was not going to work for us.
But then, Lady Luck shined upon me.
With two days to go, I checked the ticketing website on a whim, and 'lo and behold, tickets had become available on the exact date I needed them, and only that date.
After some mad scramble, tickets were secured. It was truly unbelievable luck because after the transaction was completed, I refreshed the page, and all the time slots for that day were sold out once again. There may or may not have been some internal fist pumping and happy dancing.
The big building complex on the right is the museum, and the adjacent building the warehouse/office where Anne and her family hid.
Photography is strictly forbidden inside the museum so you will have to bear with wordy descriptions of my experience instead.
We arrived about twenty minutes earlier than our scheduled time. There is a separate entrance for online ticket holders and groups but you have to ring the bell for entry. I knew that we were early, but strangely no one answered the bell even though I could see museum staff present at the reception desk. Turns out, because of the limited space, the museum can only let you in five minutes before your time slot. So we waited outside, which was really cold and windy due to its proximity to the canal. I really can't imagine waiting 2-3 hours in this weather. And while we were waiting, a fistfight broke out between some of the students who were also waiting outside.
The museum was dimly lit and quotations from Anne's diary line the walls, creating a very somber atmosphere. Conversations between visitors were kept short and in low voices. The introduction video described the conditions in which the Frank Family, along with four others, were forced into hiding. It would be nice if the audio was available in more languages than the five available.
We then proceeded into the warehouse, offices, and storage room of a jam and spices company, which fronted the secret annex where the family was hiding. The stairs were steep and impossibly long, which as I later found out, is pretty typical of old Amsterdam canal houses. The houses were built to be narrow and tall as to reduce property tax, which was based on the width of the building (seriously?)
Then, we entered the secret annex, through a doorway hidden behind a bookcase. The stairs got even steeper, if that was possible.
I'm probably a jerk for saying this, but the secret annex was bigger and nicer than I had imagined. I think anyone who has lived in a dorm room or small apartment in an expensive city would agree, that the annex would make a great living space with its huge windows and three levels (the attic/loft even had windows with a view of Westerkerk's clock tower). Okay, I'm a jerk.
Compared to a lot of other Jews at the time, the Franks were living in relative comfort. But still, that should not detract from the sad fact that they were living in a constant atmosphere of fear and had no freedom for more than two years.
Afterwards, we saw Anne's original diary, as well as other pieces of her writing and photos. The diary is also larger than I had imagined, about the size of a ledgerbook. I couldn't read the diary as it was in Dutch but I can tell you that she had great handwriting.
Having just recently started reading "The Diary of a Young Girl", I think it would have been better if I had read it when I was much younger. It would have been easier to empathize with her feelings of adolescent frustrations.
Coming out of the museum, I found myself wanting to know more about Anne's father Otto. As a survivor of the Holocaust and its aftermaths, and the sole guardian of such an important legacy, his life is by far the more interesting of the two.
Canals of Amsterdam - Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, HerengrachtWe walked through parts of the Jordaan neighbourhood, which was somewhat lackluster for sightseeing, but would be a great place to just stroll and explore at leisure.
Royal Palace of Amsterdam
Originally the town hall, it's now used for ceremonial purposes by the Dutch royal family. There wasn't enough time to visit inside but I've heard good things.
A carnival had set up in front of the Royal Palace that day, with some very thrilling rides not suitable for those with acrophobia.
Beautiful. The canals of Amsterdam are much calmer and serene than those of Venice since most Amsterdamians travel by cycling.
During our walk, we saw bikes of all types imaginable and customization: two-wheelers, three-wheelers, four-wheelers, cycle rickshaws, bikes with added cargo space in the front, side, and/or back. We even saw a party bike, with a beer party in full swing.
Prinsengracht ("Prince's Canal") with the Westerkerk Church in the background.
Bloemgracht, one of the most scenic canals of Amsterdam.
Cheese Museum and the Tulip Museum
Museums in name only. Based on online reviews, these are more like glorified souvenir shops, which is a real shame.
Because it's the Netherlands - wouldn't seem right without a photo of wooden clogs.
BegijnhofOne of the oldest courtyards in Amsterdam, dating back to the Middle Ages.
Begijnhof used to house a religious sisterhood called the Begijntjes. Even now, only single women live in the houses surrounding the courtyard.
It has one of the oldest houses in Amsterdam (No. 34). Not pictured, but has an unique wood exterior in contrast with the surrounding brick houses. A small church is also on the premises.
Even with all the tourists, the courtyard still retained a feeling of serenity.
Similar but less historical almshouse courtyards ("hofjes") can be found all over Amsterdam, especially the Jordaan neighbourhood, but are usually not open to the general public.
BloemenmarktThe famous floating flower market of Amsterdam.
The stalls had "tourist trap" written all over it so we moved on to more important things....
...more important things like FRIES!!!Sure, we got a little lost but I was not about to leave without trying the supposedly #1 fries in Amsterdam - Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminc.
(Btw, thanks random guy on the street who pointed me in the right direction!)
Crispy on the outside, fluffy and moist on the inside. I can only assume they use magical potatoes because the fries were fantastic. I ordered the highly recommended frites oorlog (peanut satay, mayo, and onions). Initially, I was afraid it might be too overwhelming since oorlog literally means "war" in Dutch, but the sauce combination was just right! Who would have guessed?
The other order of fries with curry sauce didn't turn out as well. The curry tasted sweet, almost like McDonald's sweet and sour sauce with a curry aftertaste. Blah.
Albert Cryupt MarketAfter the savory snack, it was time for dessert.
While my original plan was to check out the Albert Cryupt Market for lunch, some unexpected mix-up at the airport that morning resulted in an itinerary reshuffle. Doesn't matter because we made it to the market anyways, just before closing time.
And why did we come all the way out here?
For this - freshly made stroopwafel.
I can't quite describe it. Think wafer-meets-waffle sandwich with a caramel-honey spread inbetween. And because it's freshly made, you have to hold it flat otherwise the filling will flow out.
So good. At first, I thought it to be a little too sweet, but after you pause a bit and let your blood sugar normalize, the craving sets in.
Lesson: if you need a break from the sugar, keep your eye on the stroopwafel. I paused, and when I went to take another bite, it had already been polished off by one of my travel companions. Drat! Where's my stabbing fork?
The stand is called Echte Goudse, located about mid-way through the Albert Cryupt Market. Added bonus: the stroopwafel stand owner/operator was really cute.
Ready-made stroopwafel are also available in supermarkets. Still delicious, but a little denser and thicker.
Dinner: Dynasty
It seems like such a lovely city! Full of sunshine, and flowers and magical potatoes :). Glad you were able to check this place out.
ReplyDeleteAnd yes, I agree that you're being a jerk about the Franks' gilded cage/prison :P. But hurrah for Lady Luck smiling on you and for being able to see such an important sight and having that nice strange point you in the direction of the fries!