2012.12.05 O'ahu, Hawaii (Day 4)

Pearl Harbour and the USS Arizona
It would be impossible not to visit Pearl Harbour when on O'ahu. Admission to the Pearl Harbour visitor centre and museum is free but visiting the USS Arizona Memorial requires a time ticket, given out every 15 minutes with a limited capacity.

Given the anniversary of the attack was mere days away, we made sure to arrive early. Even with the 8:00am arrival time, we barely squeezed in the 8:30am slot. (Quick mental math: at least 100-140 people arrived even earlier than us)

The extra time allowed us to visit the museum, which I thought was very well done. The exhibit presented facts from both sides (US and Japan) without overwhelming sentimental prejudice.

 

The torpedoes (Thunder Fish, type 91) used by the Japanese, specially designed for the shallow waters of Pearl Harbour.

Once our allocated time slot was called, we gathered to watch a short introduction movie, narrated by Mrs. Bartlet herself (from The West Wing), Stockard Channing. The film really puts into perspective the significance of what we were about to visit - the resting place of 1,177 people who lost their lives when the ship sank, right in the harbour.

We were then transported by boat to the memorial site - a singular white structure sitting in the harbour - bisecting the length of the USS Arizona.

The memorial, designed by Alfred Preis, symbolises "the height of American pride before the war, the sudden depression of a nation after the attack and the rise of American power to new heights after the war".

The moment you step in the memorial, there is a sudden sense of deep reverence and peace.

Oil (also known as "tears of the Arizona") from the sunken vessel. As the park ranger explained, the site is considered a war grave and not to be disturbed so the oil will continue to leak, at a rate of about 9 quarts (the equivalent of 8.5 litres, or 6 milk bags for those of us not blessed with an innate sense of volumetric measurement) a day.

An aerial view of the memorial from Wikipedia. 

After the sombre but educational time spent at Pearl Harbour, it was decidedly the time for a change of scenery. We headed to the nearby Aloha Stadium for their thrice-weekly Swap Meet/Marketplace. 

Aloha Stadium Swap Meet/Marketplace

I had assumed that the marketplace would be taking place inside the stadium. In reality, vendors form concentric circles around the stadium, making the size of the marketplace much larger than I could have imagined. 

See the aerial publicity photo and judge for yourselves.

We only managed about one-quarter the circle before our senses were overwhelmed and we were forced to concede.

It's definitely a great place for souvenirs - Hawaiian shirt/dresses? Check. Turtle-shaped magnets? Check. Every Hawaii-related merchandise conceivable by man can probably be found there.

We didn't do too much shopping but we did have some delicious (albeit slightly overpriced) sugar cane.

If you're good at haggling and have plenty of time to kill, this is the place for you.

It was still early, so we headed to the Ko Olina resort. With its man-made lagoons, it was supposed to be another good snorkeling spot for beginners. I saw a few fish and crabs but the water was really murky (and had a strange tinge) so we didn't stay for long.

We headed north once again, trying to track down the beach mentioned by the nice couple we met the day before. I was determined to see a sea turtle on this trip. It was going to happen, even if it mean going to the Waikiki Aquarium - the very last of last resorts. 

Lunch was enjoyed at Macky's Shrimp Truck. A common combination in Hawaiian cuisine is the seafood/meat+rice+salad trifecta. I opted for the regular but I recommend the lemon pepper shrimp. And ask to replace one scope of rice with more salad. You won't be able to finish otherwise.

Oh, and don't be alarmed by the chickens roaming about. Just be careful not to hit one as you pull out of the car lot. (Oddly enough, there were no chicken- or egg-related items on the menu. So I'm guessing they are pets? *shrugs*)

The north shore of O'ahu is littered with beaches, which often than not, do not have signs. We had a heck of a time trying to locate the turtle beach (Laniakea Beach). A nice lifeguard kindly pointed us in the right direction.

And then we met Brutus.

Volunteers roped off the area around Brutus. It was somewhat of a disappointment having to stay at least 6 ft away, but I understand the need to protect these endangered creatures. And the whole point was that we got to see a real life wild sea turtle!!!

We hung out there for a good hour or so, talking to the volunteers who told us that Brutus has been basking on the beach since 7-8am (that's one relaxed turtle) and we were pretty lucky since it's pretty hit-or-miss. On a really, really, really good day, there could be up to 6-7 turtles on the beach.  

Brutus didn't really do much during our stay. I think he lifted his head up once, as if to confirm that he is still alive and not a realistic-looking prop. And I don't know if you can tell from the photos, but he's big. Big enough for a fully grown adult to ride in comfort (I kid, I kid.) 

On out way back to Honolulu, we saw this: Santa Yoda wielding a lightsaber. I didn't even know such a thing existed.

Of course a photo was needed.

Iolani Palace

The only royal palace in the United States, it served as the residence for two of Hawaii's monarchs.

Now a museum, the reviews were extremely mixed so we opted for a simple photo opportunity instead.

Statue of King Kamehameha I
The first of his name, King Kamehameha conquered and united the Hawaiian isles.

His name, made even more famous by DBZ, means "the lonely one".

Around the base are four panels illustrating his great deeds, including "Law of the Splintered Paddle ("Kānāwai Māmalahoe") assuring safety for travelers and civilians.

Panel illustrating Kamehameha's "Law of the Splintered Paddle"

There is something deeply surreal about Christmas decorations in a tropical setting. But if I were Santa Claus, I would want to move my entire base of operation to Hawaii too. Not sure how the reindeer would feel about that decision though.

Dinner at Marukame Udon. 

Well-rated on Tripadvisor for its decently-priced food, there was already a line-up when we got there.

Cafeteria-styled, you order and pick up your food before sitting down. See the illustrated Russian(?) instruction from its Facebook page.

 

Chewy noodles? Yes! Flavourful soup stock? Yes! 

And they had my favourite type of vegetables - battered and deep-fried.

Kalakaua Avenue & the International Marketplace

Kalakaua Avenue, the Fifth Avenue of Honolulu, is filled with luxury stores like LV, Chanel, Hermes, etc...

It also houses the International Marketplace, a great venue for local performances, from steel drums to hula dancing. And what would Hawaii be without hula dancing?

The troupe, comprised of four women and one man, were really terrific. Each of the female dancers looked like an exotic bird, with their brightly plumaged costumes. The feathers really helped to accentuate the fast-paced movements. It was really mesmerizing to watch.

I noticed there were a lot of vendors selling Pearls in Oyster (basically, you pay for an oyster. The vendor then opens it for it to reveal a glittering pearl inside). I remember seeing these in a duty-free catalog once. Like playing the lottery but with guaranteed winnings and who doesn't like that? 

Walking along Kalakaua Avenue, I also noticed a lot (and I mean A LOT) of free Japanese magazines. Despite my lack of fluency in the Japanese language, I had a lot of fun just browsing through them.

Ending this post with a random pavement slab with the Hawaiian word "keiki", meaning "child; little one". These slabs can be found scattered throughout downtown Honolulu.