Monday, December 24, 2012

9.14.2012 Paris, France (Day 3)

Château de Versailles
Our last day in Paris was spent at Versailles (woot!). To prep, I re-watched BBC's Versailles drama-documentary. The trilogy is divided evenly between Louis XIV (The Dream of a King), Louis XV (The Palace of Pleasure), and Louis XVI (Countdown to Revolution).

Did you know that the three Louis' actually span across six generations? Louis XIV was the great-grandfather of Louis XV, who was in turn, the grandfather of Louis XVI. It would seem that not even royalty were exempt from consumption, measles, or the smallpox.

The train station was but a five-minute walk from the chateau. I could feel adrenaline pumping as Versailles slowly revealed itself to us and its magnificent golden gates coming into focus. The original gates were torn down by the mob during the revolution and in 2008, a detailed replica was installed, which cost more than five million euros!!! (Gold leaf ain't cheap.)
 
Louis XIV, the Sun King - "L'Etat, c'est moi"
Perhaps forever tarnished by Leonardo DiCaprio's portrayal in The Man in the Iron Mask. Blah movie, good costumes. Although, looking at imdb, Jeremy Irons was in the film (!) So was John Malkovich (!!) Hugh Laurie also made a brief appearance (!!!) as "King's Advisor." Hmm... maybe the movie isn't as bad as I remembered...

Annnnyways, putting an end to that segue. Louis XIV was a great patron of the arts, as evident from the opulence of Versailles. But, did you know that he was also a skilled ballet dancer?
The weather was not on our side that day. Still, the golden gates beckons.

Once again, the Museum Pass worked its charms. Muhahahahahaha!!!


Did you know that Versailles provides free audioguide upon admission? No deposit needed. Just pick one up near the palace entrance.

Ye be warned, the following photos may look dark, awkward, and out of focus at times. They, in no way, reflect the true magnificence of the palace. I place four-eighth of the blame on the the photographer, one-eighth on the camera, and the remaining three-eighth on the crowd.

Chapel (Ground Floor)
This is the chapel where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette married. The actual marriage, not the proxy marriage, which happened in Vienna with her brother as the stand-in groom (Ick! Couldn't they have found someone else? Someone not a sibling?)

I have to say, for a royal chapel, it's more "intimate" (euphemism for small) than I had imagined. The chapel interior is splendiferously decorated with white marble and gold. 
Scale Model of Versailles. Swoon~

Making our way up to the first floor, where the most important chambers are located.

Chapel (First Floor)
The royal gallery, where the king and his family sat, surrounded by ladies of the court. The nave is for the more "common folk" and is only visited by the king during times of great celebration, such as a royal birth or wedding.
Carrying on the theme of the chapel, even the chapel door are covered in gold leaf. Talk about extravagance!

Hercules Salon
This space served as the royal chapel prior to the present and final version next door (the chateau went through a series of chapels throughout its several expansions). The second largest room in the castle, it served both as a ballroom and a room for courtiers to gather as they await for admittance into the King's Apartment. The room, as seen today, took over twenty years to complete, half of which was spent in hiatus due the the death of Louis XIV.

The grand marble fireplace (right) is decorated with the head of Hercules wearing the Nemean Lion, with golden cornucopia flourishes on either side.

The true focal point of the room has to be the ceiling painting - Apotheosis of Hercules by Francois Lemoyne. My camera only managed to capture the central scene, the ascension of Hercules in his chariot into the heavens being greeted by Zeus and Hera. Hebe, goddess of youth, is offered to the newly deified-Hercules as his bride. For the complete painting, check it out on Google Art Project. For some reason, Google Art Project has the painting mirrored. The epic painting features a total of 142 characters. And six months after its completion, its creator committed suicide by stabbing himself six times (talk about commitment). 

Louis XIV in the Venus Salon

Diana Salon
The central ceiling painting, Diana Presiding Over Hunting And Navigation, has such an ethereal quality to it. I especially love the luminously full moon in the background.

The famous Louis XIV bust by Bernini.

The gorgeous decor, complete with fleur-de-lis.

A (blurry) close-up.

Venus, Moon (Diana), now Mars Salon
Are you starting to sense an ongoing theme?
Here is Mars, on a chariot being pulled by a pair of wolves.

Since Mars is the god of war, it seems only appropriate the room be covered in war-related decor. Still, there is something disturbing about a cherub sitting on top of cannons, waving a sword-like apparatus.

Mercury Salon
Mercury, on a chariot being pulled by two roosters. (Roosters? Really?)

Once again, my poor attempt at a panoramic shot.

Apollo Room
Golden Apollo and his sun chariot pulled by a pair of steeds.
Since Louis XIV identified himself as the god Apollo, this room was naturally the most luxurious of the planetary-themed salons. A solid silver throne once sat in this room, but unfortunately like many other silver furnishings, were melted down to pay for the king's expensive wars.

The War Room

Hall of Mirrors
Mirrors may not seem like much nowadays, but they were valuable commodity in Louis XIV's time. Mirror-making techniques were proprietary to the glassmakers of Venice. Such as the Venetians' protectiveness over the secret, the government purportedly sent assassins to murder the workers invited to Louis' court.

Can you imagine, on a sunny day, just how brilliant the Hall of Mirrors could be? It is said that as Marie Antoinette made her way down the Hall of Mirrors on her wedding day, her diamond-studded gown glimmered like white fire. What a sight that must have been!
 

 When we visited, Versailles was having a contemporary exhibit, hence the giant silver heels. I'm not sure if I "get" it but they look nice and certainly appropriate given how much Marie Antoinette was said to love fashion.

Oeil du Boeuf Salon
So named for the round "bull's eye" windows.

Sorry I couldn't provide better photos. Versailles is really one of those places that much of the grandeur is in the details. Stay tune for parts II and III. In the meantime,

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

No comments:

Post a Comment